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Cape Coast GHANA

Small boats. Big Sea. Blue nets. Tight central streets around tiny London Bridge. Rolling ridges with hilltop schools. Centre of education. Conversational pace. Kindness and connection.

Elmina GHANA

White castle, sands and atrocities. Tight houses on the shore. Bright vessels in a lagoon harbour. Standing fishermen Clapping rhythms Over the waves. Unwanted gifts Bringing gift insight. And a boat called ‘Ideas: I shall return’.

Kumasi GHANA

Old city humility. Ancient kingdom pride. Symbols. Cassava. And hospital reality. Market breadth and depth. Blaring horns. Taxi spaghetti. And roadside shoe …

Accra GHANA

Dual carriageway divided: Slums. City slickers. Big city spirit of Atlanta and Jo’burg. Trees. High walls. Them. Us. Smiles and scams. Kindness …

Lomé TOGO

Coastal capital fringed by the beauty of long golden sands, palm trees and this blue ocean’s white waves. Many men in army …

Porto Novo BENIN

The capital’s refrain: school-taught children chanting… “Yovo, Yovo, bonsoir… ça va bien…merci” (Waves and smiles to these “maiweewee”)

Cotonou BENIN

Multilevel buildings. Paving stone streets. A skateboard and birthday cards. Dodging moto taxis daily and eating Mama’s on street ablo.

Ouidah BENIN

Heaviness of complexity for those treating HIV. Small town opening to wide beach exhale. Coconut trees… pauses… teapots… and the Atlantic.