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Banjul THE GAMBIA

Island capital surrounded by swamps and sea. Shore walking. Salty rain. Friendly intentions. Easy to be a tourist. Harder to be a journalist. Economic aspirations and astounding declarations.

Keneba THE GAMBIA

Morning greetings. Afternoon baking. Dusk walking through changing bush: village houses, shops, gardens, baobabs, returning workers, fields, fallen trees and wide salt flats. Evening candles. Rest.

Dakar SENEGAL

Unexpected return: a flight facilitating Cassemance avoidance. Familiar and new. Preparing for manic taxi point. Lingering in calm cafés. Busy streets. Bashed cars. Square buildings. Constant chat.

Bissau GUINEA BISSAU

Weathered and war-torn. But with latent energy and calm fortitude. Exterior impressions of decay. Interior glimpses of order, participation, resilience.

Koundara GUINEA

Town without lights. Late night home of welcome. Morning bench of conversation.

Labé GUINEA

Low-slung. Undulating. Smelly streets. Slippery rides. Rural beauty.

Conakry GUINEA

Peninsula city Crammed with Traffic and beauty. And veins of poverty. Ocean sunsets. Contrasts. Lethargy or contentment. And the accompaniment of kind-hearted …

Kumasi SIERRA LEONE

Trees, big river and spread-out houses. Pre-emptive visit to vigilant border police alert to white-skin of freetown’s drug-bust. Night work to free …

Freetown SIERRA LEONE

Houses climbing beautiful misty hills dense with rain and people and NGOs. Beachfront space and boats and bill boards. “Attitude is everything!” …

Mahara, Lungi SIERRA LEONE

Trees between houses Dark night, big rain Long shore, fishermen. Afternoon football with sea and city views. Cup of tea.